By Michael Barbieri****Several years ago, I was assigned to review La Rivista at Broadway Joe’s Steakhouse, a terrific little eatery on the stretch of West 46th Street known as Restaurant Row. Back then, I enjoyed the traditional Italian fare, the old-school ambience and the music provided by Chris Barrett, one of the last true saloon singers in Manhattan.
I’m happy to report that on my recent visit, I actually enjoyed the place even more! The food was, with one tiny exception, better than last time, the ambience was calmer and less frenetic, and the music was now provided by the charming, gregarious Bill Zeffiro. A talented singer, songwriter, musical director and recording artist, Zeffiro appears at La Rivista on Mondays, Wednesdays, Fridays and Saturdays, through Memorial Day weekend. We chose to dine on a Wednesday after 8 pm, thereby avoiding their bustling pre-theater dinner rush—a good choice, as the crowd was light and we were able to concentrate on our meal and the music.
The atmosphere at La Rivista is warm and welcoming. Tables are set with white linen tablecloths and napkins, with each table accented by a tiny vase containing a single flower. At the front, a large retractable window opens onto a small patio for al fresco dining. A small, well-stocked bar sits near the entrance. There is a baby grand piano towards the front of the dining room and a large wine rack at the rear. The 
walls are hung with vintage 1930s European liquor posters and small, hand painted canvasses, while amber colored Tiffany style sconces provide a soft, flattering glow. The staff are efficient and knowledgeable, with an old-school way about their service.
This evening, I was joined by my friend Scott, and we were seated at a table near the front, next to the piano. Scott started off with a glass of the house red wine, but I stuck to sparkling water. Just as we placed our dinner orders, Bill Zeffiro arrived and asked the crowd, “Hey, isn’t someone supposed to be playing the piano?” then added “Well, if no one else will, I suppose I should” and began his first set with “In the Still of the Night” and “You’d Be So Easy to Love.”
Within a few songs, our appetizers arrived. We had decided to share the polpette—the restaurant’s signature meatballs. Beefy and flavorful, with a wonderful texture, they had a subtle seasoning that was just right. They came served in a lovely tomato sauce that was sweet and tangy, yet never overpowered the flavor of the beef. We also tried the baked clams. This, to me, was the only misstep in the meal. While they were appropriately garlicky, with a nice crust of bread crumbs, they seemed a tad underdone. And though they might’ve been a bit off, the prep and presentation was good; they just needed a bit more fire. Our final appetizer, the carpaccio Rivista, was a huge success! Gorgeous, vibrantly red raw beef tenderloin, sliced
paper thin and topped with arugula and shavings of aged Parmesan cheese, the dish was very lightly dressed with a bit of olive oil, lemon and a hint of freshly ground black pepper. A heavy dressing can often ruin a carpaccio, but here, they got the balance just right—the delicious beef was definitely the star of the plate, with the arugula adding a peppery verdant note, and the cheese providing a sharp, nutty, slightly salty bite.
As we waited for our main courses, Zeffiro launched into two lively, witty Broadway tunes: “Home Sweet Heaven” and “You’d Better Love Me,” both from the musical High Spirits. He followed that with one of my favorite instrumental pieces, Scott Joplin’s “Solace.” Truly a versatile musician, Zeffiro treated us to a wide variety of styles and genres. And while his material was generally upbeat and fun, it was never intrusive—never interfering with our conversation or our meal.
Next, our server brought our entrées. Scott had ordered the lasagna Bolognese. Substantial, hearty and multi-layered, the pasta was cooked to a lovely al dente texture—with just a bit of tooth to it. The ricotta-based béchamel sauce had hints of herbs and lent the dish a wonderful creaminess. To top it off, the lasagna was smothered in a rich ragu made from ground veal and beef. And though all of the flavors were quite distinct, the dish was brought together perfectly by that fabulous, meaty ragu sauce! I chose the scalopinni di Vitello alla piccata (veal piccata). While I’m not a huge fan of veal, I wanted to try one of their most traditional dishes, and I have to admit, I loved it! The medallions of veal were tender and sautéed perfectly and the sauce was bright and lemony, with the richness of butter balancing out the acidity. And although I didn’t see the capers that are usually part of a good piccata, the dish was so tasty, I didn’t miss them too much.
As we finished our main courses, Zeffiro brought up one of the singers he usually showcases with a few sets of their own. This evening, his guest was Kay Allen, who favored us with lovely versions of “Blue Skies” and “Someone to Watch Over Me.” Zeffiro followed that up with “I’ve Still Got New York,” one of his original compositions.
After a few moments, our desserts were presented. Scott had selected the Italian Cheesecake—made with ricotta rather than the cream cheese you’d find in a New York style cheesecake. The Italian version is dryer, more dense and less sweet than the American version, making a very nice way to end ameal. I chose the Tiramisu. Served in a small glass bowl, it wasn’t the usual cake-like confection we’ve come to know, but more like a pudding or trifle. The delectable mix of whipped eggs, sugar and mascarpone cheese, flavored with cocoa, was layered atop spongy homemade ladyfingers soaked in espresso. Topped with a floater of coffee liqueur and a puff of whipped cream, this was one of the best tiramisus I’ve ever tried!
We wrapped up our evening with a couple of after dinner drinks. I had an ice cold Limoncello, while Scott had a Frangelico. As we sipped our liqueurs, Bill Zeffiro and Kay Allen continued their musical salon. From standards “Moonlight in Vermont” and “Cheek to Cheek,” to Randy Newman’s quirky, modern love song, “Better Off Dead,” to another Zeffiro original titled “A Voice in the Blue,” the selections were light, fun and always entertaining. As we prepared to leave, Zeffiro capped off our night with a perfect song for an Italian meal: Dean Martin’s signature hit, “That’s Amore.”
La Rivista’s proximity to the theater district makes it the perfect spot for dinner before or after a show. From pastas and fish dishes to hearty grilled meats, or even a burger made from Wagu grass-fed beef, there is something for just about every taste. And whether you have a full meal, or simply dessert, coffee or a nice nightcap, Bill Zeffiro’s sophisticated music provides the perfect accompaniment to a flavorful night on Restaurant Row.
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